Well, the summer is coming to a quick close and while the weather is still heavenly, we still have time to get out and enjoy those late, late sunsets and enjoy playing le flâneur/flâneuse through town. It is, after all, how we discovered gems like rue du Nil, rue Mouffetard, and rue Montorgueil. And while perhaps not as colorful as the charming rue Crémieux, today, let's take a P'Niche peek at an (almost hidden) gem, rue de Lévis...
Nestled nearby to le Parc Monceau, rue de Lévis is a pedestrian street, with open markets, quaint shops, one of the city's best baguettes, quirky residents, and a heartbeat all it's own.
I was recently invited to stay (coucou Marie-Pierre!) for a Parisian getaway week and am forever grateful to have been able to experience this absolute charmer of a pedestrian street...
Believe it or not, this little walkway is pretty ancient - think rue de la Colombe old. It began as a Roman road, which led from Lutèce to the smaller village of Argenteuil (via the still existing rue d'Argenteuil).
Fast forward to the 17th century and we are now at the establishment of the village of Monceau (which is what really led to the urbanization of this street - and may explain why the architecture on this rue seems older thank her nearby sister streets).
But, it's in the 1800s when things really begin to bustle in the alleyway. And when it comes right down to it, in this case (and many others) it's all about...
location, location, location!
Ideally situated on the outskirts of the (rather wealthy) Monceau area (and the now expanding western region of Paris), the street became a haven for vendors of all sorts - baker, butchers, produce, cheese shops, and more.
And these sellers (rightfully) became very protective of their turf...
During the mid to late 1800s, when many areas were being razed to allow for the Haussmannian renovations and boulevard construction projects, our feisty rue de Lévis merchants fought and held fast to their pride (and prime real estate).
No new boulevards cutting through our marketplace, merci very much!
This independent spirit lives on today - the street recognizes and plays upon their strength - with its own business owner's association in operation. In fact, the president of this association, Michel Bouvet, has shown off this strength stating, "We fight for the independence of the street. We take no subsidies from the town hall - we won't be beholden to any mayor."
Rock on, Monsieur Bouvet!
He went on to further explain how it's location is one of their best assets.
Situated between the luxe Monceau area to the south and the "bobo" (that's hipster to you and me) Batignolles quartier to the north, Bouvet notes, "The CEO and his cleaning lady both shop here... the concierge and her bourgeois residents all come here."
Like P'Niche always says, "Paris is for everyone!"
Now, that's not say that the street has been immune to all modernizations. Larger corporations and chain stores have quietly made their way to the street.
Notably, À la Mère de la Famille has found a home here. I'm not mad about it - they have some of the best Easter Bells around!
Closer to the métro, Monoprix has popped up - two actually - on opposing sides of the street... one for food and nibbles and the other for clothing and housewares. No shade, they have the most affordable cashmere sweaters around!
Now, P'Niche, didn't you mention something about baguettes? I sure did! At one of the smaller independent shops, Les Saveurs de Lévis (located at No 41), you can indulge in one of 2023's Best Baguettes in Pars - number 8 to be exact, but number 1 in my heart! I paired with a cheese from the shop a few doors down - maximum level yumminess...
Also, their "grab and go" items like quiche, tartes, etc. are simply top notch.
There are more shops than you can imagine for such a small street - a smaller chocolatier, a honey shop (you need this honey in your life, trust moi), a delightfully stocked wine shop, a preserve shop, and even a meringue shop (trust me here, too - just wildly delicious) - you can cater to any whim, any meal, or picnic while taking in the sights and charm that one cannot find too easily anymore. La rue de Lévis is well worth going off the beaten track to explore...
As you approach rue de Lévis, you'll also take note of what is quickly becoming one of Paris' more Instagrammed cafés - Le Dôme de Lévis.
You can enjoy a lovely brunch menu on their expansive terrace and they offer one of the better hot cocoas I've had the luxury of trying. The lovely staff will let you take all time you like to people watch and enjoy this delicious moment. They also have great Wi-Fi for when you need to catch up on your work and shows - ask me how I know!
Ready to head to rue de Lévis? Marvelous!
Métro: Villiers (Lines 2 and 3)
Shop hours all vary - best to check ahead.
Can't make it to Paris soon enough - no problem! You can enjoy this lovely strolling video by the incomparable Véro, as part of her delightful "Paris Streetscape" series. She shows the highlights and then some...
It's my go-to when I am feeling "homesick" for Paris and I know you P'Nichers will understand the sentiment!
So what do you say, P'Nicher, are you ready to head to rue de Lévis to explore, or have you already been and have a favorite shop or photo opp to share? Let us know in the comments below et à bientôt!
Love, "a heartbeat all it's own" Your stories would make such a great book. Brava! and Merci for yet another reason to return to Paris.
Bonjour Christina. What a surprise to find this delightful story in my inbox today. Rue de Lévis, I love thee. Let me count the ways. You saved me during the second and third French lockdowns as I lived around the corner and could always count on you to provide delicious fare and lively street vibes. — Thank you for sharing the virtual tour Christina. Good memories of challenging times spent in special places.