In today's world of rampant consumption and single use products, I am proud to say that many of the objects in my own home have been lovingly "upcycled" from Parisian flea markets and brocantes. Some items even came from Les Bouquinistes de Paris..
Today, let's take a look at one of Paris' smaller marché aux puces (flea markets)...
Believe it or not, our story begins in the States (USA! USA!) in Texas...
In the early 1800s, an ongoing "swap market," or outdoor bazaar was opened, providing a safe space for people to sell or trade their previously used (second-hand) goods - from clothing to home goods and beyond.
Flea markets were different from other street vendors of the day. It was the wares of the market alone, and not any other public attraction that drew in shoppers, visitors, and served as a public house of sorts for locals to commune.
This vendor experience became rather lucrative and many people often made this hobby their side hustle of the day.
Fast forward to 1860 and the partnership between Napoléon III and Baron Haussmann.
With their plans to lengthen and broaden Parisian boulevards, the majority of vendors were pushed out of place, now selling their second hand wares just north of Paris, in front of the Porte de Clignacourt gate. In fact, to this date, that remains the largest flea market in Paris.
Ok, but why the funny name - flea market? So glad you asked, clever P'Nicher!
During this same era, the term marché aux puces was coined as many of the items (clothing and furniture alike) were said to come with an (unwanted) bonus - fleas. A common ailment of the time, it just was what it was... now it more or less means "outdoor bazaar." Fleas not included!
"Hey, wait a minute - we've heard of the Porte de Clignacourt Flea Market - we even saw it is Woody Allen's movie Midnight in Paris! And it looked fabulous! Why not just go there, P'Niche?"
I hear you, P'Nicher and it's a great question with an unlikely answer... it's just... too big (for moi) - over 2500 vendors!
Also, with the staggering amount of larger items, like wardrobes, bulky desks and furniture pieces it just isn't a "great fit" - pun intended. Unless I get my dream Parisian apartment. Then, look out, here I come!
The petit Porte de Vanves flea market is a treasure because of it's smaller size - good things DO come in small packages, after all!
With it's relaxing and intimate vibe, this market is the perfect place to stroll and find your perfect (fits in your suitcase) Parisian treasure - an ongoing souvenir of your trip...
Pandemic (ew, too soon) aside, the Porte de Vanves flea market is the only to reside intra-muros Paris and has been in constant operation from 1905 - with near 400 unique market stalls selling items from mundane to magnificent.
No merchant is permanent and the assigned lots are in constant rotation - truly this flea market is never the same place twice. What a wonder!
There is simply too much charm to put into one post and I truly encourage you to get over your shyness in trying to speak to vendors in French and calculate those dollar to euro currency conversions on an item you have your eye on.
How to shop and best relax the Parisian Flea Market? Read on, gentle P'Nicher...
The Porte de Vanves Flea Market is located at:
Avenue Marc Sangnier & Avenue Georges Lafenestre (75014)
Métro: Porte de Vanves (Line 13)
Bus: 58, 95
Tram: Line 3 (Didot)
Important Note: The Market opens:
Saturday and Sunday only 7am - 1pm
*Note: many vendors close for lunch and just head on home for the day...
P'Niche PSA: 9:30am is a real sweet spot - not too crowded and vendors are unpacked and ready to welcome you!
Okay, now you are on site. Now what?!
Look around, take your time, and relax. This is the fun part...
If you see something you like, now is the time to make eye contact with the seller. Do not forget to greet them with Bonjour! if they do greet you when only looking...
If permitted (and only if permitted) you can pick up the item (or items) you are thinking of and say combien ça coute? Or simply combien?
Now here is where if gets nerve wracking and fun. Can't count in French (or English for that matter?) No worries!
Here is a truly fun and playful P'Niche personal tip that vendors get a kick out of...
My mother (hi, Mom!) is a well established Interior Designer who has purchased lots of gems for her clientele over the years. She gets by in 4 (!) languages - none of which are French. No problem! She carries a pen and sticky note pad with her and has the vendor write down the price. She often crosses out the figure with an X and writes her desired fee, until they reach a (comical) mutual agreement of cost. Too Fun!
That said - be respectful when haggling. Sellers oftentimes won't come down from what they believe their worth is - and that is fair. A deal is a deal and respect is respect.
Set (and keep to) your budget. You'll more often than not get what your heart desires and your bigger problem will be packing space to bring your loot home!
If you have to good fortune to stumble into a vendor who speaks English (or your mother tongue), please do ask them the history of the item/s!
These sellers are passionate about their wares and love to share the unique history of the piece (or pieces). And the stories you'll have to tell about your item/s - too cool!
If you're ready to purchase, remember that most vendors cannot process credit card transactions. Cash is king. Plan to bring both Euro paper notes and coins (in as small denominations as possible so they can make easy change for you).
Also, single use plastic bags are no longer easily available in Paris and France. I always carry a canvas sack with me as well as a very sturdy multi-use Monoprix bag (IYKYK!)
I even bring bubble wrap (or used padded shipping bags/packaging) with me to ensure my treasures make it back through the métro and home in one piece. Sellers actually value this and I've even had sellers lower prices when they see I am a "serious buyer." For sure, this won't work for everyone, but if you're on a mission, it can't hurt!
In short, sure, you can buy lots of "I Love Paris" tees and sweatshirts as souvenirs and there's no shame to it (I have oodles!)
But, why not branch out and look around for a piece of Paris that you can take home with you to enjoy for the rest of your life - and even pass down your love of Paris to your future generations?
Well, when I put it like that, right?!
Ok, P'Nicher, have you found any treasures at the Porte de Vanves flea market, or now adding it to your list to check out? Let us know in the comments below et à bientôt!
You always make me want to immediately book another trip to Paris. I've been to the largest flea market which was a blast, but not this one. I must return. I buy orphaned wine glasses, that way if one breaks, I still have a bunch more, because none of them match. And people can remember which glass is theirs and all the different glasses make the table interesting. I've bought many in Paris and put to use all those bubble envelopes I get from Amazon. Merci, Chrissy. Porte de Vanves flea market is on my list!